Maybeck’s set to reopen in marina with new menu and new Baker & Banker partners
by Maybeckthe cozy Marina restaurant, which opened in 2015, largely escaped the radar of the city as a whole until the onset of the pandemic while becoming a solid neighborhood favorite.
Local Chief Ryan Scott named it as a favorite on Please check! in 2017. A special Wednesday evening Beef Wellington won Michael Bauer accolades that year and the Chronicle thereafter published Chef Blake Askew’s recipe, but when the pandemic hit, the place turned dark and its future looked uncertain. But now we learn that two chefs who have been absent from the scene for a few years, the husband and wife team of Lori Baker and Jeff Banker, have joined forces with Maybeck’s partner and original chef, Aaron Toensing, and the trio relaunches Maybeck’s restaurant. later this month with a refreshed interior and revamped menu – and a new take on that Beef Wellington.
Toensing’s original partner in the venture, Erik Lowe, appears to have retired, and Toensing brought in longtime friends Baker and Banker as partners. The couple, as local foodinistas might recall, previously operated Baker & Banker in the Pac Heights space that now houses octaviain the few years since Quince’s departure, and were well known for their creative, intimate, comfort food and Baker’s excellent pastry work – Banker previously served as executive chef at the Castro’s Home restaurant and worked at Traci Gardens’ Acme Chophouse.
Baker & Banker closed in 2014 and Banker then ran the kitchen at the downtown Bluestem Brasserie for a time. But now the pair have become Toensing’s partners, and Baker tells Eater that they aim to bring lighter, less meat-centric fare to Maybeck’s when it reopens on June 30.
“The idea is that it’s more thoughtful,” Baker told Eater. “I think it’s getting harder and harder to find reflection [these days] at an affordable price.”
The Beef Wellington will return in a mini version, made for two people and only on Wednesday evening specials. And the new burger on the menu will be a double-patty smashburger, served with American cheese and a “special sauce.”
Other new items on the menu include grilled Brokaw avocado with hijiki salad, spicy sauce, micro cilantro and puffed rice; muhammara (red pepper and walnut dip) served with raw vegetables and papadum; a roasted beet “lasagna” with homemade ricotta, roasted nuts, herbs and citrus; abalone and koshihikari rice porridge with shimeji mushrooms, liver sauce and furikake; slow-roasted lamb with white beans and roasted carrots; and a roast Liberty half duck served with duck fat fried rice, mini bok choy, puffed duck eggs and a canned black bean and chili crisp.
The return of the old menu will be a Bolognese Radiator, but this version will be smokier and topped with fermented chili oil.
Baker is also working on a Brooklyn blackout cake for dessert which will be served with chocolate egg custard.
The space’s interior gets a facelift with a new marble chef’s counter, new wood tables, copper accents to match the copper bar, and a new dark green color scheme. There will also be a new private dining room and a wine shop under glass.
And the tableware is also redone, with all new handmade ceramic dishes from MMclay and San Francisco-based ceramic artist MaryMar Keenan.
Expect Maybeck to officially reopen on June 30, and you can start making reservations through OpenTable now.
by Maybeck – 3413 Scott Street in Lombard – Reopening June 30