Breckenridge’s tastiest tapas bar is underground
Nine steps below street level, dimensions below the tourist bustle of Breckenridge’s Main Street, and a world tour away from typical ski resort menus lie Mimo Fancy Tapas. The 60-seat tapas bar is tucked away in its own sacred and romantic corner, reminiscent of Spain’s best-kept secret cellars.
Step down (and step back in time) and let general manager and master mixologist Alberto Puebla — still dressed in his crisp white shirt, green tweed waistcoat, and gold suspenders — pour you a homemade sangria ($9). You may just nod with the regulars calling the house recipe of brandy, oranges, apples, dried peaches, lemon, vermouth, sugar, sherry and merlot the best sangria you’ve had in your life.
The vision behind Mimo, courtesy of owners, restaurateurs and Spanish natives Borja Cortina and brothers David and Victor Menendez, was to bring a slice of the country to the United States. The trio decided to open their first American business in the mountain town after years of ski vacations in Breckenridge. The name, slang in Spanish for “hugs,” is a touching feeling that equates to a mother’s affectionate caress, says executive chef Eric Seltzer, a Los Angeles native who met Breckenridge restaurateurs.
As for the menu, Seltzer brings authentic Spanish small plates to life, encouraging sampling and exploration while letting go of inhibitions through patatas bravas ($12), jamón ibérico ($30) and a succulent tail of 12 Hour Red Wine Braised Beef ($26). The team imports Spanish cheeses, meat, olive oil, saffron, paprika and other essential spices to create winter dishes that include seafood paella ($32) , freshly cooked to order with mussels, clams, prawns and calamari.
“In Spanish culture, the whole family comes together and you share everything,” Seltzer says. “So you can try five or six different dishes. Small plates don’t mean you’ll leave hungry. The plates are not really small.
The flavors are developed in stages and the chef remains faithful to Spanish culinary traditions. For example, Spanish rice is covered in lobster broth for eight hours, and texture and balance are considered with every bite. Spanish croquetas ($14), the most popular dish with Breck locals, are formed in a delicate two-hour process that results in a divinely creamy béchamel sauce wrapped in a perfect crispy sphere. The thinly sliced octopus carpaccio ($18) is dressed with a light drizzle of olive oil and a drizzle of chimichurri rojo.
Elevated ingredients and plating include the “fantasy” of Mimo Fancy Tapas. “The term makes people suspicious of what’s going on here,” Seltzer says. “But when you walk in it’s cozy and authentic. It is cheap.
Mimo’s décor matches the elegance of the menu with signature dark green and gold accents played on polished silverware, bathroom fixtures and cloth towels. A small cellar contains over 30 imported Spanish wines hand selected from small European family vineyards. Plush armchairs with rounded navy blue and emerald backs beckon thirsty patrons to gather around the bar and witness Puebla’s intricate cocktail presentations.
“When you sit at the bar, you get a show,” he says. “It’s calculated and consistent.” There are also some serious eyebrows on the cocktail menu. In A Ticket to the American Dream ($16), Puebla shakes and strains Breckenridge Distillery Bourbon with cream of cheddar cheese, barbecue sauce, onion syrup and lemon juice, and serves the drink with a can nostalgic red and white striped popcorn. Simpler options lie in a strawberry cheesecake vodka martini ($14) infused with manchego cheese and the house Cuba libre ($14) with lime, cola and nutmeg.
Next time you’re strolling through Breckenridge, head down the stairs and grab a corner at Mimo Fancy Tapas to swap ski stories and treat yourself to a mini Spanish food tour.
216 S. Main Street, Unit 4, Breckenridge